Thursday, July 14, 2011

The Long Length Jacket

I have seen Long length Jackets all over this season.

Will this trend last?

Acne Spring 2012

What was seen as Swedish heritage, in this case retro, dominated the clothes of the Spring Summer 2012 collection this year for Acne, with Johansson, a Swedish designer, now at the helm. The models walked on a turquoise runway surrounded by hot pink and were made up to look like guys from the 70s, with their hair gelled back and the make-up not apparent. 

The pants were high waist and the Men's ankles were more exposed, they keep getting higher and higher. I loved the texture of the jeans, its denim but it looks very sturdy as if its not going to wrinkle; a sort of fake denim material made to look like denim!
I loved the strap sandals.
The longer length coats are everywhere this season and I absolutely love it.
This camouflage floral print is really cool. I especially liked it in blue.
This take on sweaters was something new that I haven't seen before. Although it seems many designers no longer are going for the layered look, I feel like these will do well.
This is probably the only time I can remember where I loved club collars (collars that round around the end) and turquoise on a man, the boldness is very minimalist and classy.
Acne always does the glasses so well, they are of course, plastic, but they look like they could have been made of glass and the edges are refined and distinctly European.

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Missoni Spring 2012

Slim clothes were the only thing Missoni presented today, nothing was loose and everything was form-fitting. It was athleticism, on the upcoming London Olympics that inspired this sportswear like clothing, which asks the Missoni Customer to be slim and fit, and no doubt, young.

Many of the suits looked relaxed, not structured, in drop shoulders that suggest comfort. They were often placed over T-shirts, polos, and casual wear that were often bold, in a bright orange and red, as if they were cardigans.
I loved the woven sandals near the end.
All the leggings had drawstring ankles and were crumpled, sturdy as sportswear should be.

The actual cardigans were nicely done, and I loved the one with the polo shirt underneath with a bold orange collar.


There wasn't as much as I expected, from Missoni, as I usually like it when they go bolder, as they did in Spring 2011. Either way I am sure there customers will be relieved to dress in comfortable, form-fitting clothes.

See the video of the collection here.

Lanvin Spring 2012

A man in uniform is always a hero.

This was the thought behind Lanvin's newest collection, which was set in a beautiful Colosseum-like venue, to the music of the Dark Knight. Security Guards, Military men, and Superheroes were all represented as every look seemed to be distinctly different from each other, the only thing that was linear was this hero theme that carried over to a more manly man, something Lanvin hasn't visited in many years.

The hair was eccentric, sort of a pumpkin cut, and the models walked fast and with energy, as any hero would. Everything was experimental, nothing was what you would normally see, as all clothes were either tightly fitted or loosely fitted. The coats were of a long length typically, and the messenger bags were abnormally small. I loved the big clutches, a thin and sleek bag made out of black crock material that could hold a lot. The loose pants were tucked into boots and the short shorts were great when paired with a coat. Many of the jackets and shirts had a dropped shoulder and the ties were tucked into shirts, a trend I've never really cared for.
My favorite brand, Lanvin has inspired me again, as it always does.
At the end a series of tight hippie-like pants were featured, something different, which I loved. Apparently they were patched together uniforms, and were something I have not seen all throughout fashion week.

See the video of this collection here.

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

No-Tie

The no-tie trend has been around for a long time now, and I don't think it will ever go away.

What do you think? Should men resort back to ties?

Emanuel Ungaro Fall Winter 2011.2012

Ok. Yes. I admit it. The Women's Fall Winter 2011.2012 runway shows have been long over with, and we are about to start the women's Spring Summer 2012 season, but I have to get this in before the upcoming season starts. Although many critics have loved it, and many have hated it; I loved Ungaro's most recent show because of its sexiness, its uniqueness, its tribal elements, things I will always love.

"I dress mistresses, not wives," was a famous statement by Emanuel Ungaro when he was still the brand's creative director. Now, 7 years later, it is apparent that not much has changed. This very sexy collection was held in an opulent room in Paris that could have been part of the palace at Versailles. Almost everything was black, and nothing was left to the imagination as soon as the first girl walked the runaway in a black jumpsuit-like dress.
Tribal chokers were on nearly every model, and Solstiss fleece was used on some occasions, but when I did see them, I didn't particularly like them. The black leather jeans will undoubtedly do well, and often outfits had the waist exposed but covered in a black tight spandex-like material. The element of wolfs and hawks like the women who dress in them were apparent, as were the bold, sparkly shoes in turquoise, intense pinks and black. A cabled Sweater with hawk claws near the end was particularly great and a double-breasted jacket/ dress was very sexy.
One of the trends I hope comes from this is the skirts and dresses in black leather without any sort of shape. It is very futuristic and very sexy, in my opinion; but has a very limited clientele. Another highlight were the green on black skirts and dresses like twill, which I feel will do really well, particularly among the Japanese.

I just loved it so much, and, pity I'm not a girl and can't afford it, but in its own way it deserves a special place away from fashion week.

Calvin Klein Spring 2012

It was no surprise that Italo Zuchelli's new collection for Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 10.11 was based on minimalism, the heart of the brand's DNA. There was something new, however, something that actually attracted me to the bareness of the brand compared to other seasons, especially the men's brand, which, truth be told, I never had much interest in. I think it was the bold futuristic weirdness that Calvin Klein has always had, but so bold, with every look communicating this value, that made it so strikingly apparent.

The show was held in a blank, white room admist rows of chairs in which celebrities, namely Joe Jonas, sat looking for things to wear in the upcoming season. The first model came out, all white in a tank top and scrub-like, pajama-like shorts that were loose fitting with a waist band; the inspiration was then apparent, American Sportswear. Continuing down the runway were tailored blazers with often a mesh quality that sometimes went into the undershirt underneath, all with these loose fitting shorts.  A couple of scrub-like shirts, in mint green, white, grey, and black were paired with shorts, and in the later part of the show an emphasis on the waist was apparent in the different colors of Jackets, all minimalist and clean. The tiled blazers were another thing I loved, showing his inventiveness in using different technology to create the clothing that men will wear in the next summer season.
Some of the things I didn't like were the pants near the end, the length covering the knee just shy of the ankle but baggy, and particularly the black petaled shirts, which I felt were too bondage-star-like. Also the circusy lapels that were on one suit in particular, the bold gray with a stark black that I felt didn't work.
It was no surprise that Zuchelli went this route in regards to sportswear, as the Summer Olympics will be here when they are finally sold; but in it, he really created a work of minimalist art that I love and have learned to appreciate, perhaps for the future seasons to come.